Monday, May 15, 2017

May 2017: Final Preps for Departure

On Wednesday 10-May we once again drove back to Palm Beach, this time in a one-way rental car loaded with our travel bags.  We stopped at Old Port Cove marina to grab a couple more spare parts from Yacht Tech for Relish, and then the next day (11-May) caught a flight out of PBI back to Nassau. 
Relaxing Dinner in Relish's Cockpit

Untangling the Jordan
Drogue Chute
With just less than 5 days remaining before our planned departure date we went to work on final departure preps.  They were all relatively minor items:  troubleshooting the GFCI outlet for the fresh water pump, tightening the couplings on the transmission drain/fill lines, laying down new absorbent pads for the main engine, preparing and then securing the Jordon drogue chute, topping off the wing engine’s day tank, and mounting a coolant recovery tank for the wing engine….plus a few other nits here and there.

Who the Hell Put a
GFCI Back There?
We also prepared clipboards for the Pilot House with appropriate checklists and communications protocols for the crossing, and made final tweaks to our safety equipment – primarily configuring life vests with signaling devices and then topping off the ditch bag.  Over a couple of days we loaded our planned routes into the ship’s navigation systems, as well as a couple of backup laptops, and double-checked waypoints for accuracy and clearance.
Michelle Loading Routes Into the
Furuno System

Of course we also took time to get off the boat and walk to some of the local eateries nearby.  Silvio had found a local favorite just a short walk from the marina, so we enjoyed some of the best conch salad to be found anywhere, along with some spiced Bahamian shrimp, and for a third course a pile of seasoned vegetables over a whole snapper -- all washed down with plenty of Kalik (a good local beer.)
Local Nassau Dive for Conch
Salad & Kaliks

On Sunday we also made a final grocery run which primarily consisted of loading up the galley with fresh produce, fruit and dairy from the local market. The prices were eye-popping….Nassau is not an inexpensive place to shop for such things.  Gary Brace, our 4th crew member for the leg to Bermuda, flew in that evening and joined in on the preps.

Final Shopping Run in Nassau
On Monday morning (15-May) we participated in the first of the final two captain’s briefings via cell phone and Skype.  Bernie Francis chaired the meeting, introducing all captains and crews to each other, and going over final checklists for departure.  We followed that with discussions about individual crew member responsibilities in the event of an MOB event and a few other emergency situations.

That evening we experienced a significant fresh water leak under the galley sink when the filtered water (plastic) faucet connector snapped at its threads.  We scrambled to turn off the fresh water pressurizing pump and use other faucets to relieve pressure and drain the lines....but we still dumped a LOT of water into the boat and down into the engine room below. Lacking a good plumbing repair kit we had to improvise some of our own parts and cap off two fresh water hoses.  We now have high praise for JB Weld's "WaterWeld" product.
Farewell Fireworks Over Nassau Harbor

After all that it was all about checking for a good weather window, and we were pretty much ready to launch by the next day (16-May).  We have another captain's briefing at 0830 that day, and that will determine the ultimate departure timing and rendezvous with the rest of the fleet 200 miles to our northwest.  We won't have time for another blog post before then, so stay tuned to the tracking site to verify launch:  (CLICK HERE).

Saturday, April 29, 2017

April 2017: Taking Relish Back to Nassau

Our inReach Track to Nassau
On Monday 24-April we drove back over to Palm Beach once again, with the goal of completing another round of provisioning as well as getting Relish’s punch list completed and moving her back to Nassau. By late morning on Wednesday, 26-April, we were ready to go.  On the way out of the Lake Worth area we stopped for fuel, taking on about 1100 gallons of diesel (bringing our total to 2800 gallons) and then headed out into open waters.  (Click HERE for our tracking site.)

Onboard were James Knight and Scott (from Yacht Tech), Gary Brace (our 4th crewmember for the upcoming sortie to Bermuda), plus Rick & Michelle.  On the first leg of the route we sailed due south hugging the coastline, mainly to minimize the impact of the Gulf Stream current.  Then at Fort Lauderdale we turned Relish eastward towards the Bahamas.  

inReach Track....with Messaging
Detail Displayed
During the remaining daylight hours we spent our time testing systems, otherwise known as sea trialing.  Both the main and wing engines got a good workout, as did the two diesel generators, air conditioning system, water maker, galley appliances, plumbing, pumps, and of course all the nav/comm gear. 

This was a fabulous opportunity for us to get to know the boat a bit better.  While a Nordhavn 60 bears some resemblance to our N47, it is in other ways a very different vessel – Relish is both bigger and more complex, and also has very different nav/comm equipment….mainly Furuno NavNet 3D augmented by Nobeltec TimeZero. The primary differences and complexities that stand out are the generator auto-start system, modifications made to accommodate European shore power differences (50 HZ AC power vs. 60 HZ), as well as an extensive Maretron monitoring system (which is very sexy.)
Two Radars Active at Different Ranges Plus the Chartplotter

During daylight hours everyone took informal turns at the wheel.  After the crew enjoyed a good dinner of stuffed peppers together in the pilot house just before nightfall, we then split up into our overnight shifts. Gary manned the helm until 2200, then Rick & Michelle took the next watch from 2200 to 0200, followed by James & Scott until 0600.  At about that time we experienced a battery charger issue that required attention (later rectified by replacing a 100 amp fuse), although a backup unit was still functional. 
Plus the Maretron Screen....One of Many Available

Sea conditions tended towards the sloppy side much of the night and following day; with the wind cranking around 20K from the NE, seas built to 4 feet at short intervals, with the occasional 5 foot hole in the water. But overall the hobby-horse ride wasn’t too bad.  Rick and Michelle got to experience sleeping in a forward state room in lumpy seas:  doable when you have a good mattress & pillow (we did), don’t mind dozing in a constantly moving rocking chair (we didn’t), and ignore the occasional air between your back and the mattress (that took some practice.)
N50-21 Get Away Punching Thru the Waves

We had a buddy boat in trail for most of our journey.  The Get Away is a Nordhavn 50 recently purchased by Greg and Michelle Dreiling, and our trip to Nassau turned out to be a good sea trial opportunity for them as well, following a couple months of refit work performed by James’ Yacht Tech yard in Palm Beach.  Get Away performed beautifully, and she looks as good as she runs.  It’s a 15 year old boat that looks and runs like new.  For a video of Get Away taken from Relish Click Here.
Michelle Filming Get Away Getting Spray Over the Bow

Silvio was eagerly waiting for us when we arrived at Nassau Yacht Haven shortly after 1700, and he was very happy to be reunited with his beautiful boat.  He treated us all to a great dinner at the marina’s restaurant (The Poop Deck), and we all crashed into our bunks shortly after that for some much needed shut eye.

The inReach's Trip Summary
We were all up early the next morning and used the time to troubleshoot some of the minor issues that had cropped up….everyone’s circadian rhythm was whacky anyway.  We also in-processed through Bahamian Customs (they had already shut down the previous evening) before scrambling to the airport to catch a flight home – probably setting some kind of record for the shortest time between in-and-outprocessing through customs and immigration.

We have a short break now – until 11-May – before we fly back to Nassau to make final preps for the ocean crossing.  So more to come, stay tuned.  If you have time click over to the NAP Blog site to see the latest there.

That's James Bracing himself in Relish's Pilot House Door Taking Pics of Get Away as She Came Alongside
Enroute to Nassau. Notice the Bow Up (Pitch) Angle of Relish at That Moment.

Wednesday, April 19, 2017

April 2017: All About N60 Relish

Firstly, as promised in the last blog entry, here is the link information for the blog site that covers the larger “Nordhavn Atlantic Passage 2017”…note there are two NAP blog entries already posted as of today, the first providing an overview of the boats involved and the general schedule, the second offering insights into what sort of preparations are involved for such a journey: 



You will also note that in the upper right hand corner of the sidebar there are a couple of new links that point to the NAP web site and our satellite tracker (not much to see on the latter yet, but it is up & live if you want to test out access to it.)

Since Michelle and Rick are also responsible for the NAP blogs you will find some occasional overlap between those and our personal Ghost Rider blog, but we’ll try to avoid that where possible.  Once you’ve had a chance to peruse the NAP coverage at the links above, come back here and we’ll share some information about Relish, the Nordhavn trawler on which we are crewing, as well as some of the preparations with which we are assisting.

Relish, a Nordhavn 60
About Relish
Relish is a 2010 Nordhavn 60 (hull #52).  Our friend Silvio purchased her in St. Petersburg, Florida in 2016, and as you will see from some of the pictures included here she is a drop-dead gorgeous vessel.  Relish is one of the early N60 production boats, which is actually a stretched version of the now discontinued N55.  The extra five feet is at the stern of the boat, providing a much roomier cockpit and lazarette than its predecessor.

Salon & Galley
With an overall length of 63 feet, a beam of 18 feet, and displacing 120,000 pounds, she is a beefy ocean-going trawler that can hold her own in the toughest of conditions….waaay more than her occupants can withstand.  And with a 2,800 gallon fuel capacity (she has the optional long range tanks) Relish can go a very long distance without refueling….around 4000 nautical miles on average.  So in theory she could make the entire Atlantic crossing without refueling - although that isn’t the plan.

Pilot House
Relish has three staterooms and three heads, along with a comfortable salon and well-equipped galley area, plus a very spacious cockpit for outdoor seating.  Its fly bridge and pilot house boast state of the art nav/comm equipment, including redundancies appropriate for an ocean-crosser.  She is powered by a single diesel power plant, a turbocharged 340 HP Lugger L1276A, but also has a backup get-home engine, along with two diesel generators.

Preparations to Cross an Ocean
Roomy Cockpit
As you will read about in the NAP blog, getting a boat and its crew ready to cross an ocean is not a simple exercise - the amount of planning and provisioning that go into it can sometimes seem overwhelming.  But given enough time and money – and an organized approach – it can certainly be done.

Stowing Spares in the Laz
Around the time we first met Silvio on his boat (December ’16, in Nassau) we were also in the process of building provisioning worksheets for our next boat.  We offered those up for his use, and eventually, at his request, we became the equivalent of his “purchasing agent” here in the U.S., since Silvio had to return to his home in Switzerland.  At about the same time Relish was sortied back to the U.S. for various preparatory maintenance tasks at Yacht Tech’s yard in Palm Beach.  So we went to work inventorying what was (and wasn’t) present on the vessel, and started to fill in the gaps.
Oil....Lots of It

Rick handled basic boat supplies, fishing gear, tools, lubricants and the like, while Michelle focused on crew quarters & the galley – both equipment and food.  The latter also involved developing meal menus for the entire month-long journey, which had to take into account the crew’s likes, dislikes and allergies.  We’ve since loaded much of these provisions aboard Relish – had to, Rick’s office wouldn’t hold any more stuff, nor would our vehicle – although at this point only non-perishable foodstuffs have been a part of that.  The perishables will wait until just before the departure date for the crossing.
More Oil

Getting Relish Back to Nassau
In addition to all the preparatory activities, we are also planning to sortie Relish from Palm Beach back to Nassau (New Providence in the Bahamas) soon – likely some time the week of 24-April.  
Relish Getting New Bottom
Paint at Yacht Tech

We’ll use that opportunity as a mini sea trial, with an approximate 26-hour and 200 nautical mile non-stop sortie to Nassau’s Yacht Haven marina.  James Knight, owner of Yacht Tech, will captain the ship, and we’ll wring out all the systems.  (If something should go awry James is the guy you definitely want on board with you.)

By the time we reach Nassau we should have a fairly good idea if Relish is ready to make the long trek across the big pond.  That will also give us a chance to perform another test on our Garmin/Delorme inReach tracker.  After that we’ll publish another blog with instructions on how to access and use that tracking site.  So stay tuned.

Wednesday, April 12, 2017

April 2017: Ghost Rider Redux?

The DeFever 53
It has been a long time since our last post, but all along we've been busy trying to figure out a way to get back into the boating business with a Ghost Rider II.  We've actually been scouring the boat brokerage market since last October, and in that span we've been on at least 13 prospective boats.  One of those, a DeFever 53, caught our fancy. But after a very extensive survey and sea trial revealed some unanticipated issues, we decided to pass on it. So the search continues.

Relish - A Nordhavn 60
Nevertheless, in the midst of all the boat browsing we've been making preparations for a crossing of the Atlantic ocean on a Nordhavn 60, named Relish. The Nordy community is a tight one, and one where it's common to make new friends on a regular basis.  In this case we befriended a relatively new Nordhavn owner who, after buying the boat of his dreams here in the U.S., wants to get it back to his home waters in the Mediterranean.  And he needed some crew to help him do that.

Nordhavn Atlantic Passage
Beginning in mid-May 2017 several Nordhavn trawlers will make the long trek across the Atlantic ocean....from the east coast of Florida to Gibraltar. We're calling this the "Nordhavn Atlantic Passage 2017", aka NAP.  And we're jazzed to be a part of it.

The total journey will traverse approximately 3,900 nautical miles of open ocean, and will take us about a month to complete.  Our schedule is noted below. Bernie Francis (see link here) is our group leader aboard the flagship. Bernie was also our mentor and trainer in the early days of our Nordhavn ownership experience.  Ideally, assuming no weather delays, the trans-Atlantic passage will be completed once all vessels arrive in Gibraltar on or about 16-June.

As we chug across the big pond we'll be able to post near-real-time tracking via our Garmin/Delorme inReach satellite device; plus Michelle and I will be one of the flotilla's bloggers.  We will post the web site URLs for both the tracking device and the NAP blog once we get those finalized.  In the interim, here is the general current crossing plan:
  • Depart Palm Beach, Florida on Wednesday 17-May for a 5 1/2 day passage to Bermuda.
  • Arrive in Bermuda on Monday 22-May and stay 4 nights.
  •  Depart Bermuda Friday 26-May for an 11 day passage to Horta, Azores.
  •  Arrive in Horta on Tuesday 6-June and stay 4 nights.
  •  Depart Horta on Saturday 10-June for a 6 day passage to Gibraltar.
  •  Arrive Gibraltar on Friday 16-June.
One oddity to note....while Palm Beach will be the departure point for most boats, our vessel (Relish) will actually be departing from Nassau on New Providence island in the Bahamas.  That will require us to depart on 15-May to intercept the other boats departing from Florida.
Planned Route Across the North Atlantic

The owner and captain of Relish is Silvio Gentile, who resides in Lugano, Switzerland.  There are a number of circumstances that prevent Silvio from being present to supervise the preparations and provisioning of the boat at Yacht Tech's boatyard in Palm Beach, so Michelle and Rick are assisting with a few projects.

We'll have more to come on how we are preparing ourselves and the boat for the journey in the near future.  Stay tuned.

Sunday, September 25, 2016

15-20 Aug: Ghost Rider Salvage Ops

Northstar Marine was subcontracted by SeaTow to dive the boat, sling it, and then raise it using their large barge-mounted crane.  (Northstar, by the way, has a solid reputation in the industry, which included a significant role in the BP oil spill recovery efforts.)  There would be some understandable delays here….divers were working with very limited visibility, as well as very narrow time windows where the current was at a manageable velocity.  Raising a 95,000 pound boat in 30 feet of water is a complex operation under the best of conditions.
Hauling Out

By the time all parties were in agreement and equipment was in place, and divers had rigged the slings under the boat, it was a full week later, Monday (15-Aug).  The first lift attempt did not go well….as the boat got to the surface one of the slings either broke or in some fashion failed.  The surveyor commented that what he saw of it – before it went back down – didn’t look good….the boat was awash in mud and silt, and the mast had suffered significant damage during the lift attempt.

On Tuesday (16-Aug) they tried again….but it wasn’t until the next morning (Wednesday, 17-Aug) that they were able to fully raise the boat.  It was, as expected, an absolute mess.  The radar mast had snapped in half, the dinghy’s chaps had shredded, as had the fly bridge bimini top, most of the headliners inside were down, and everything was coated in silt & mud.  They applied a temporary patch to the holes in the hull, kept the dewatering pumps available (not needed as it turned out), and towed it on the barge’s hip down-river about 30 miles, then a few more miles up the Maurice River to one of Northstar’s facilities (Boat World) in Leesburg, NJ.  Before hauling it out, we and Phil Risko, owner of Northstar Marine, discussed pumping out the boat’s fuel and water tanks, removing the anchor, anchor chain and dinghy – all to reduce weight as much as possible given their travel lift would be close to its maximum capacity.

Hauled Out
We drove down to the salvage yard the next day (Thursday, 18-Aug) to meet the surveyor, examine the extent of the damage, and determine what of our personal belongings could reasonably be salvaged.  From an exterior perspective, the boat actually survived the ordeal reasonably well….it was certainly mud-stained, but still looked rather good above the waterline apart from the broken mast and several stretches of deck railings that were mangled or missing; the salvage crew admitted all that was due to the way the lifting straps were fitted, essentially strangling the boat as they lifted it (twice) with the barge crane.

Starboard Stabilizer Askew
As for below the waterline, the starboard side stabilizer fin was askew 90 degrees, and the port side stab was deflected about 10 degrees, but both were intact and had never developed any kind of leak.  The hull sported two holes….the first was directly on the nose, about 3 feet below the waterline, clearly at the point of initial impact; it had been patched with a concrete mix, but was relatively small – approximately 4” by 4”.  In retrospect, we’re fairly certain that is where the initial and relatively low volume water intrusion occurred; but as the stern had settled lower and the bow rose with the falling tide, it wasn’t long before that hole was well out of the water.
Busted Radar Mast

The second hole – and the one that eventually sunk the boat – was at the bottom of the keel at the amidships point….where the boat rocked and jostled on the jetty wall as the tide ran out and ship wakes rolled her.  Over time (e.g., 16 hours) that was just too much weight stress for even a Nordhavn’s thick and sturdy hull.  We often wonder what the outcome would have been had more air bag buoyancy been available under the stern.  (As an aside, both the surveyor - Steve Mason of Mason Marine - and the owner of Northstar Marine - Phil Risko - marveled at the sturdiness of the boat, relaying stories of other brands that simply buckled and fell apart under similar circumstances.)

Chelle in the Salon
Over the next three days (through Saturday, 20-Aug) we spent long, hot hours in hazmat suits retrieving and scrubbing personal belongings and various add-on equipment which had gone down with the boat.  Once you got past the stench, though, it wasn't too bad. The real challenge (and occasional debating point between us) was at what stage do you just say the hell with it and recognize there is a point of diminishing returns?  We finally both agreed we had reached that point late Saturday afternoon...we stuffed everything we had retrieved into our rental SUV, and said our final good-bye to Ghost Rider at 1630 on that Saturday.  We then spent the following three days driving back home to Fort Myers.

Post Mortem
Throughout this ordeal, apart from some scrapes and cuts on Rick’s hands and forearms sustained during futile attempts to plug the ragged hole(s), nobody was hurt – although our egos and psyches took a solid beating.  Eventually, after a period of several more weeks, the boat was formally declared a CTL - a constructive total loss.

Back in a July post Rick wrote this, plagiarized from an unknown author, and it seems oh so relevant once again:

Experience is a harsh teacher:  She gives the test first and then teaches the lesson later.”
What's Left of the Guest Stateroom
We’ve had some time to examine the events that led up to the tragic loss of Ghost Rider, and the thing that starkly stands out is a departure from our normal routine, in both the planning and the actual execution of that sortie.  Typically one of us would lay out the day’s route and the other would then review and perform detailed checks on depths, hazards, Active Captain comments, etc., switching among multiple chart types, making tweaks as needed.  In the days leading up to the event we had been changing destinations and routes on a daily basis; we ended up at the Summit North Marina the day before because our desired anchorage was both too small and too full.  We had barely squeezed into that particular marina due to its skinny depths, so the following day we decided to depart late afternoon to hit the highest tide possible during egress. 
View of the Muddy Engine Room Thru Salon Hatch

That meant the next day’s sortie was going to be very short…with a 1500-ish departure, and less than three hours to the next anchorage, since we did not want to run in unfamiliar inland waterways in darkness.  It was to be a short run with nothing but daylight, deep water and good weather along the route.  What could possibly go wrong?  Well...we had omitted our standard cross-check of multiple sources, and had also failed to cross-check them again as we approached the anchorage area…where Rick in particular became afflicted with target fixation (mostly depth contours.)  In the flying game, such a lax approach can produce even more dire results.

Looking back, we also feel the boat might have been saved; had the flotation bags been deployed earlier, and with much more inflation, the grinding of the hull on the pivot point on top of the jetty would have been mitigated, and the severity of the breach would have been less...and perhaps survivable.  Whether it could have also survived the large wakes that ultimately dislodged her from the rocks is pure speculation, but is certainly in the realm of possibility.

Regardless, the root cause still comes back to our mistakes.

The Hole That Sunk Her
We were both taught that if we weren’t making them, we weren’t trying hard enough. Risk taking had always been encouraged, as was the requirement to deal with the consequences of that….eventually you are defined by how you handle the consequences when under pressure.  We think we did OK with the latter, and eventually we will reconcile with the rest of it. (The other infamous thing Rick’s father once told him, only somewhat tongue-in-cheek, was “don’t beat yourself up over a mistake….unless of course I’m not there to do it for you.”  Roger that.)

So that’s the whole story, and this is our last post in the Ghost Rider chronicles.  Our thanks go out to all who have been so supportive throughout the ordeal.  There have been too many to mention here, we have an amazing support net.

Close-Up of the Hole
On this three month voyage we had journeyed 1,800 nautical miles.  Since last October, when we first started actively cruising Ghost Rider two months after acquiring her, we had covered over 3,000 miles, putting 700 hours on her main engine – which, by the way, never missed a beat.  We owned her for one year and one day before we lost her…and were just starting to think perhaps we had finally reached a comfort point in our knowledge of, and ability to, manage her complex systems, and just maybe had finally caught up with the break/fix expense curve.  Or maybe not…that all might be romantic or wishful thinking. 

Regardless, we’re going to be dirt dwellers at least for the foreseeable future, so it’s time to sign off and go through our grieving process, with both apologies and thanks to our four ghosts....who will, nevertheless, continue to inspire us.

If / when we get back into the boat market we may have to look at a submersible.

Chelle in Recovery Mode
Hauled Out for Salvage

The Hole in the Bow

A Damaged Ghost Rider in the Slings

Another of a Damaged Ghost Rider in the Slings

And Another

And Another

Fly Bridge Shot

Port Side View of  Hull Hole & Stabilizer Damage

Closer View of the Fatal Hole

Busted Mast on the Topside




Close Up of the Big Hole

Another Close Up of the Big Hole


Owner's Stateroom Aftermath

Pilot House Aftermath

Rear of the Pilot House

Pilot House - Starboard

Another Salon Shot