April 2018: Off to the Bahamas

Sun, 8-Apr…Departing Old Port Cove

Departing Palm Beach and OPC...Heading Down the ICW to the Inlet

In spite of the previous night’s unpromising weather forecast we arose early on Sunday morning to check the weather one more time….and Rick found it good enough to go.  TRWs were still forecast for Palm Beach, but late enough in the day that we knew we could avoid those with an early take off; and the TRW prognosis for our West End arrival point had moved back in the forecast timeline enough that we thought we could beat those with a 1700 or earlier arrival.  The sea conditions also looked to be good enough – just 2 to 4 feet predicted with reasonable intervals, and mostly with winds from the WSW, so we didn’t expect the Gulf Stream to get very sloppy.

After finishing up our preflight checklist we started engines, tossed off lines, and were underway by 0800.

The initial ICW leg – less than 45 minutes of inside cruising to reach the Lake Worth Inlet – was smooth under mostly sunny skies and light westerly winds.  As Ghost Rider exited the inlet and aimed east we still had very benign conditions – a barely perceptible wind chop on top of gentle two foot swells.  It was about as good as it gets for a daylight crossing, and the fly bridge was the perfect place to be on such a nice morning.

Juli & Chelle Piloting from the Fly Bridge

By the time we were in the Stream an hour later, Dan had two trolling rods rigged with Rattle-Jet lures and we got the fishing lines wet.  However, as it turned out there were no fish in these waters today.

Juli, Chelle, Dan and Rick rotated informal shifts at the helm, although we mostly ran with the autopilot in “Track” (nav computer) mode for the bulk of the crossing.  The AP did a commendable job compensating for the Gulf Stream current, crabbing from 12 to 15 degrees to starboard the first half of the route and keeping cross track error to a minimum.  Over the last two hours the current seemed to let up as heading and course converged.

Danno Had the Trolling Rods Out in Short Order

Late in the day we could also see a small line of TRWs forming ahead of us near Grand Bahama Island.  A long range look at the radar revealed some small cells in the 36-to-48 NM range, and the XM weather display indicated they were moving mostly east, away from us.  That fortunately turned out to be true, and by the time we were within visual range of West End Settlement the storms had dissipated and the seas were nearly flat.  The entry channel to Old Bahama Bay Marina is fairly straightforward – at least in the daylight; it’s definitely lacking sufficient night clues, especially where the channel takes two short 90 degree turns between the rock jetties.

Entering West End Channel Approach to Old Bahama Bay

We had no difficulty maneuvering Ghost Rider once inside the marina’s basin finding plenty of depth, a wide slip and a helpful dock hand.  Rick got everyone checked in at the customs office allowing us to take down the yellow Q flag and hoist the flag of the Bahamas, then after Dan and Rick hosed down the boat we settled in for the evening.  A line of TRWs moved in shortly thereafter keeping us inside Ghost Rider, but the forecast for the next day looked good.

As for “boat business” Ghost Rider ran well all day, with no stabilizer leaks observed; however, we still had some minor drips from the leading edge of the main engine’s oil pan.  Rick torqued those just slightly.

Mon, 9-Apr…Relaxing at Old Bahama Bay

Dan & Juli on Ghost Rider's Boat Deck at Old Bahama Bay, West End.

The next morning brought excellent weather….light breezes and sunny skies, with temps in the mid-80’s.  After a few boat chores and rigging some light tackle fishing gear (thanks Dan!) everyone got the chance to enjoy the charms of the Old Bahama Bay Marina.  It’s a well-kept facility with colorful lodges, large swimming pool and a pristine beach on the island’s east side.  It’s worth spending a day there.  For those so inclined, there are also reputable fishing charters and eco-tour boats based there.

The "West End" of the Grand Bahama island was originally settled in back in 500AD by the Lucayan natives, but even still by 1836 had a population under 200.  It was the Cival War in the States that really built it, as the Union embargo on the Confederacy created fantastic smuggling opportunities just 55 miles from the coast.  Today the population of Grand Bahama is around 14,000, with Freeport as its main center of tourism, and the West End a mecca for fishing.

Some Bungalows at Old Bahama Bay Marina

It's a good entry point for exploring the Bahamas, the Abacos in particular.

Tue, 10-Apr…From West End to Great Sale Cay

While the longer term forecast wasn’t great, our departure weather was perfect and we were underway by 0900.  Initially we ran north for about two hours to reach the cut to the east near Memory Rock.  Up to that point the open waters of the Atlantic Ocean were fairly smooth with a mild two foot swell on the beam from the west and a light wind chop on top.  After making the turn to the east and into the shallower waters of Little Bahama Bay the sea state settled in at about 1.5 feet quartering on the stern.  It was a fine ride with helm duties rotated among the four of us on the fly bridge.

The Partial Barracuda That Dan Caught

Dan had a couple of trolling rods deployed and it wasn’t long after our easterly turn that the starboard side line went off.  Chelle slowed the boat so Dan could fight the fish on better terms.  By the time Dan got it to the boat we had about one third of a barracuda on the cockpit deck – apparently there was a bigger fish out there that was pretty hungry.  As the afternoon progressed we caught several more cudas (whole ones) – not good to eat, but they made pretty good cut bait.

As we neared our destination – an anchorage at Great Sale Key – our local conditions were still quite benign but we could see on our Sirius/XM weather display that nasty weather was behind us and moving our way.  Likewise, additional storm cells started forming nearby and were moving towards us…the skies quickly turned from clear and sunny to grey and threatening.

Squall Line Approaching Our Anchorage at Great Sale Cay

We entered the southern anchorage area of Great Sale just after 1700, sighting five other boats already anchored there.  We maneuvered among them and found a good place to drop in about nine feet of water, setting the hook in a sandy bottom at 1730.  And we set it hard, using 1300 RPM in reverse before we declared the anchor fully set, and using plenty of scope (all chain) given the deteriorating weather.  Within 30 minutes a line of storms moved in over us from the west with initial gusts at 40 knots, followed by sustained winds of 30-35 knots for the next two hours.  We had white caps and 3 foot rollers in the bay.  In spite of the hobby-horsing our anchor set was solid and did not budge.  During that time several other boats scurried into the bay seeking shelter, and by sunset we had nine boats in the anchorage.  Given the lousy weather we kept the boat closed up and ran the generator to provide everyone with air conditioned quarters.

Hunkered Down in Comfort for the Night

A few hours later the storms had passed and winds died down a bit, and thankfully we enjoyed relatively calm conditions overnight, with just a light swell and winds under 15 knots. 

Wed, 11-Apr….Anchored at Great Sale Cay

The next morning our anchor watch software told us the anchor was still solidly planted and hadn’t dragged at all.  The winds started to pick up again and we could see more storm cells in the area, although fortunately they bypassed us this time.  We spent some time looking at the (Sirius/XM) weather forecast (for the most part there is no cell signal and no Internet access here.)  The prognosis had improved from the night before, but it still wasn’t great.  Based on wind strength and direction changes over the next day or so – westerly but clocking around to the north and east – along with the projected afternoon storms, we decided to stay planted for the day.

Emptying the Laz to Gain Access for Battery Multimeter Tests

While the anchorage was still a bit bouncy (not a good day for launching the dinghy), we still had a leisurely day to tend to some boat chores and do some fishing.  After the early morning storm cells had passed by us we shut down the genset and opened up the boat.  Rick and Dan tended to some basic preventative tasks concerning various sea strainers and pumps, and also ran some house battery tests with varying loads, while Chelle and Juli tended to some light cleaning and more meal preparations.

Around mid-morning Dan put out a spinning reel with some of the barracuda cut bait, and it didn’t take long to get a hit.  Fortunately this time it wasn’t another cuda, but instead was a small (about four foot) black tip shark.  We had all heard those were good eating, so we kept it, filleted it and grilled it for lunch.  We highly recommend it.

The Blacktip Shark We Boated....and Ate -- Delicious!

Later that afternoon we got the opportunity to briefly chat with another Nordhavn, as N57 White Raven pulled into the anchorage just after 1500.  We chatted on VHF with Pat and Steve Strand for a while to catch up on each other’s cruising plans.  They were making their final stop in the Bahamas after six weeks of cruising here and were headed to Charleston, SC for their next stop.  Late in the day Rick powered up and tuned the SSB radio to the NWS offshore weather frequency and listened to the latest forecast, while doing the same thing via the Furuno’s XM/Sirius satellite weather feed.  It was generally acceptable for the next few days, although winds would be steady at 15-20 knots out of the northeast.  That made our planned stop at Allans Cay the next day a reasonable one as its orientation would provide protection for those predicted winds.

Thu, 12-Apr….Great Sale Cay to Allans Cay

Since the planned sortie for the day was a relatively short one – less than five hours – we had a leisurely morning while the generator purred along to recharge the house batteries after a full night of inverting had brought them down to around 84%.  At 1000 we completed our preflight checklists, cranked the engines, retrieved the anchor, and set off for our next island hop.

Rick & Chelle Posing for Juli's Camera Underway to Allans Cay

The day’s weather was as predicted with the temps in the mid-70’s, and humidity at 63% under partly cloudy skies.  The breezy conditions gave us a short 2-3 foot chop, which Ghost Rider handled with aplomb.  We let the generator run for another hour to complete its bulk charge cycle, bringing the batts to 97%, then shut it down to let the alternators take over from there.

Our route this day initially took us north to loop around Great Sale Cay, then ESE to run along Little Bahama Bank.  The winds increased to around 20 knots on the nose as the day went on, giving us 3 foot rollers at about 2 second intervals; that resulted in plenty of sea spray over the bow but Ghost Rider punched through it fairly smoothly.  We arrived at Allans Cay around 1430 and coasted in as close as we could to the shoreline and while still staying in depth that gave us two feet under the keel; then we dropped the hook and set it with some extra rode given the winds.

Dan on the Pole with a Nurse Shark on the Hook.

We readied the dingy for launching but then the winds picked up a bit more…followed by the arrival of several sharks.  Dan actually hooked a “small” (about a five footer) nurse shark on one of our spinning rods.  So we decided to wait on getting off the boat for now.  Perhaps the better-sheltered anchorage at Green Turtle Cay the following day would provide more favorable conditions for that exercise.

We enjoyed a gorgeous sunset under utterly clear skies, followed by a delicious dinner of black tip shark fillets, and called it a night.

A Beautiful Sunset at Our Allans Cay Anchorage

Fri, 13-Apr…. Allans Cay to Green Turtle Cay

The sortie to Green Turtle Cay was even shorter than the previous day’s trip so we slept in the next morning and enjoyed another leisurely morning hanging on the hook.  The winds were still cranking at 15 to 20 knots from the northeast, but we were secure with a good anchor set and adequate protection from the island.  Around 1045 we yanked the hook up and set off on a southeasterly heading through the Sea of Abaco.  We encountered short seas to 3 feet and some scattered though very light rain showers, and once again it was a comfy ride; but it wasn’t a fly bridge day.

Ghost Rider at Anchor with Snubber Deployed at Green Turtle Cay.

Around 1400 we neared the planned anchorage on the west side of Green Turtle near the small town of New Plymouth, and Rick noticed an AIS transmission from another Nordhavn anchored there – N57 Worknot, owned by Gale and Mary Plummer.  We hailed them on the VHF and got a good preview report of the depth and spacing available, taking a lot of guesswork out of the ensuing anchoring maneuvers.  It was fairly shallow with 2 feet under the keel since we were arriving at low tide, but that was good enough and we found a nice patch of sand to drop the hook.  We got a good anchor set on the first try once again, only a short distance from Worknot.

Shortly after we got the arrival / shutdown checklist completed, and hosed at least some of the salt off the boat, Gale arrived in his tender to welcome us to the area.  We had a relaxing chat on the fly bridge, and got an update on their travels along with some good guidance on attractions on the island, swapping some Nordhavn war stories along the way.

Gale & Mary's N57, Worknot, at Anchor Alongside Ghost Rider

Late that afternoon we finally launched the dinghy and the four of us piled in to first tour Black Sound bay, and then went back out and around the corner and into the Settlement Creek harbor at the town of New Plymouth.  We found the dinghy dock there, tied off the tender, and took a brief walk through part of the town.  It’s a classically small, quaint and quiet Bahamian settlement, which will warrant more touring time. There are several interesting eateries there, and we stopped for an early supper at Harvey’s Island Grill where the cracked conch and lobster was superb.

Once back on the boat we fired up the generator for a few hours to run the water maker, get some laundry done, and top off the charge on the house batteries.  Then we shut down, opened the windows and enjoyed a peaceful night at anchor.

Sat, 14-Apr…. Hanging at Green Turtle Cay

McIntosh's Eatery at Green Turtle Cay....Excellent Conch & Lobster

We took care of some minor boat chores on Saturday morning while waiting for a few showers to pass, and then in the early afternoon dinghied into New Plymouth once again to try out another restaurant for lunch.  This time we ended up at McIntosh’s where the cranked conch and cracked lobster plates were too tempting to pass up; and it fully met our expectations.

After that we rented a golf cart and toured the entire island.  The Atlantic side beaches and waters here are stunningly beautiful.  There are many strips of smooth white sand bordering ocean waters whose colors cover an amazingly wide spectrum of awesome blue and turquoise shades.  Eventually we ended up at the far north end of the island where we found yet another gorgeous beach with plenty of sand dollars, as well as a coral covered northern-most point where one could simultaneously view both the open waters of the Atlantic on one side and the more protected Sea of Abaco on the other. 

Just One of the Beach Views on Green Turtle

On our return leg we took a spin around the well-protected northern bay called White Sound where we found a large mooring field and marina facilities in considerably better shape than what we saw in the south bay in Black Sound.  In that same area we stopped at the Bluff House Beach bar and enjoyed the two-for-one happy hour while overlooking the pristine waters of the sea on the west side of the island. The Goombay Smash is a specialty there and not to be missed….it’s a mixture of several rums with flavorful fruit juices making for a wonderfully relaxing tropical drink.  Two of them will definitely get you attuned to “island time”.

Enjoying the Goombay Smash at the Bluff House Beach Bar

Eventually we made our way back south, dinghied on back to Ghost Rider, and then enjoyed another peaceful dinner and overnight while hanging on the hook.

Sun, 15-Apr….Green Turtle Cay & Great Abaco Island

As we studied the weather forecast the next morning it became pretty clear that we would not want to spend another night in our current anchorage.  A nasty cold front and associated storm system was headed our way from the northeast and would be in our area late Sunday night and Monday morning, clocking the winds around to the west and northwest.  Not a good wind direction for this anchorage.  Our escape plan was pull the anchor and motor the short distance across the channel to the eastern shore of Great Abaco.

This Sign Says It All, Don't Ya Think?

But that still gave us some time to take the golf cart back to the beach for some shell collecting and also grab another (conch!) lunch at Harvey’s Island Grill.  Gale and Mary joined us, and the guys talked about boats while the ladies talked about everything else.

We returned to the boats around 1400, hoisted and stowed the tender on the boat dock, then made the short sortie over to Great Abaco’s shoreline.  Winds were still cranking, now out of the south from 20 to 25 knots, but we found good holding about 450 yards from the shoreline and 550 yards north of Worknot’s new location.  We found depths much better than what the charts told us to expect, with 7 feet under the keel at low tide.  While we still had 1-2 foot rollers making Ghost Rider bob around a bit in the stiff wind, we had put out extra chain rode and backed down hard on the anchor in anticipation of the coming squall line.  The anchor set was solid. 

N57 Worknot Anchored Nearby in Our New Location

Mon, 16-Apr….Hanging Off of Great Abaco Island

The cold front and associated squall lines moved in during the wee hours of the morning and showers continued intermittently until late morning.  The winds clocked around to the northwest a little earlier than predicted, but overall we were in a good place.  Rick had lowered the taller antennae just in case of lightning, but we never saw any nor did we hear thunder.

Our next planned leg would take us further south to Great Guana Cay, and while that was yet another fairly short run of 17 miles, it involved crossing what is known as Whale Cay Channel.  That particular stretch of shallows has a deserved reputation for being wickedly rough and occasionally even dangerous – one guide book says that in certain conditions (called a “rage”) it can be suicidal to attempt to cross due to the way large waves coming from the open Atlantic interact with the shallows and rocks in the narrow strait.  Given the recent frontal passage and stiff winds, we decided to give that patch of water another day to calm down a bit.  So we had a lazy day just hanging on the hook off the shoreline of Great Abaco Island.

Dan, Juli & Chelle Taking the Tender to Great Abaco's Nearby Shoreline

By early afternoon skies had cleared, and air temperatures reach into the upper 70’s with 15-20 knot winds from the northwest.  We launched the tender again, and Chelle, Juli and Dan dinghied to the shore to stroll the narrow strip of beach and collect some shells.  Meanwhile Rick took care of a few boat shores, updated the work-in-progress blog diary, and also enjoyed some quiet time for a little reading.  (Current book: “The Grey Seas Under” by Farley Mowat.)  He also tended to the engine room and lazarette preflights in anticipation of the next day’s departure.  We had another peaceful evening on board Ghost Rider and got a good night’s sleep.

Another Captive Sunset While Anchored Off of Great Abaco Just Across
the Chennel from Green Turtle Cay

Tue, 17-Apr….From Great Abaco Near Green Turtle to Orchid Bay on Great Guana

The next morning brought mostly clear skies and the expected brisk breeze from the north that followed the frontal passage.  We retrieved the anchor and were underway by 0900 heading SSE towards the Whale Cay Channel.   The VHF radio reports of conditions in “The Whale” were good though, and turned out to be accurate – a bit sloppy at times with three foot swells at short intervals with white caps on top, but nothing near what the locals call “rage” conditions.  We plowed our way through it without issue and approached Orchid Bay Marina on Great Guana Cay just before noon.

Our Dock's Entrance to the Orchid Bay Facilities on Great Guana Cay

The marina is protected from the Sea of Abaco by a substantial man-made rock breakwater, so it was calm water and wide fairways, but there was some confusion over slip assignment, which resulted in us having to dock Ghost Rider twice; the first time bow-in resulting in the realization that the finger pier wasn’t long enough for us to disembark the boat; the second time stern-in which provided marginally better de-boarding logistics.  It all proceeded without drama, and besides, Rick needed the docking practice after so many days of anchoring.

After we got the boat all tucked away, we had a relaxing lunch at the marina’s Sunsetter restaurant, which also provided us marvelous views of the Abacos inside waterway from its sea-side dining deck.  Then we rented a golf cart and went on a tour of the island.

Lucn on the Deck at Sunsetters

Like Green Turtle Cay, Great Guana Cay is mostly a golf cart community that is a bit more commercialized, but that’s a very relative scale in the Bahamas…only 150 people live here along its 7 mile strip of land between the Atlantic Ocean and Sea of Abaco.  The eastern side features elevated bluffs that overlook the open ocean, providing commanding views of its beaches, reefs and crystal clear Bahamian waters, with their typically stunning green-blue colors.  We drove from one end of the island to the other, exploring side roads and sandy paths and shelling along the beaches.  On the return drive we stopped at Nippers Beach Bar & Grill which is perches on the southeastern bluff overlooking the Atlantic.  Famous for its “Nipper Juice” (yep, another multi-rum and fruit juice drink, and we yes downed some), it’s definitely a party place with its open air seating, swimming pool and boisterous Caribbean music.

The Beaches on Great Guana Cay 

After returning to the boat to get cleaned up and catch up on emails, we relaunched the golf cart for the short run to Kidd’s Cove Bar and Grill for dinner.  The food is excellent – whether conch, grouper or mahi – once it finally gets served; you need to be on island time, and the Goombay rum cocktails help with building that patience.

Another Bach View on Great Guana Cay

The Approach to Nippers Beach Bar & Grill

View of the Beach from Nippers Position on the Bluff

Dan, Juli & Chelle Enjoying Nippers

Wed, 18-Apr….From Orchid Bay to Marsh Harbor

We awoke to our very first calm and sunny morning in the Bahamas early on Wednesday.  Ghost Rider’s bow was facing the breakwater at the edge of the marina basin and just beyond it the Sea of Abaco was completely flat.  Yay.

Finally...a Perfectly Flat Sea Just After Daybreak....Yay!

Figuring this would be another short sortie day – just a couple of hours across the channel and a bit further south to the Marsh Harbor area – we had a relaxing breakfast, caught up on email and the news, and checked out of the marina.  Around 1030 we cranked engines and departed.  The cruise down to Abaco Beach Marina at Boat Harbor, which is on the east side of the Marsh Harbor peninsula, was perfectly smooth under clear skies and temps in the upper 70’s.

Perfect…until we arrived at the marina, as they seemed totally unprepared for our arrival in spite of the reservation we had made early this morning.  After about 20 minutes we finally got a slip assignment, and as Rick approached the designated slot, the marina called on the VHF radio and announced they had assigned the wrong one…and were still working to find another.  Rick backed Ghost Rider out of the narrow fairway and back into the wider entry fairway; but after another 10 or 15 minutes of station-keeping (and still no slip assignment) he decided to exit the marina basin entirely into open water to make the wait a bit less stressful; marinas can be tight quarters when you have nowhere to go.  Fortunately the near calm conditions made for fairly easy maneuvering.

Aerial View of Boat Harbor....This Place is a Sportfishing Zoo

After another 30 minutes the marina finally called us back on the VHF to assign a different slip, so back in we went and docked Ghost Rider stern in.  We figured that would be the end of the day’s drama, but….nope.  The power quality at this marina is somewhere between bad and terrible; showing only 215 volts on what was supposed to be 240 volt power pedestals made the ship’s inverter/charger very unhappy….and after a short spell we had to start the generator to power the boat.  Continuing the less than stellar experience, the water pressure at the dock was almost nonexistent, so we decided to s-l-o-w-l-y top off the boat’s water tanks instead, and later use the boat’s own pump pressure to wash off some salt.

The Pool & Pool Bar Are Nice....But That's About It

As it turned out there was a large fishing tournament about to start, and the marina was inundated with large sportfishing vessels; whose crews proved once again they are the best at being obnoxious and rude.  The marina itself is quite well constructed and visually appealing, with a nice pool area and poolside bar, so we enjoyed some brief time ashore; but we’ll be cutting our stay here short and seeking another place to spend the next night or so.  Paying marina and water fees plus having to run the generator is just plain nuts.

Our rough plan is to head back east across the channel and check out the mooring field near Hopetown on Elbow Cay if we can get there on a high tide.

Latest Track

March-April 2018: Layover at OPC in Palm Beach

Late March / Early April Update

After slogging up the ICW “ditch” from Fort Lauderdale to North Palm Beach we settled in for some relaxation over the weekend and began lining up our needed maintenance appointments with our local experts.

Tue, Wed & Thu, 27/28/29-Mar at Old Port Cove

Alex & BJ Go to Work on the Main Engine's Oil Pan Gasket

On Tuesday Yacht Tech arranged for Alex Graham, our diesel engine guru, to come out to the boat the day after he returned from vacation, and we appreciated the prompt attention.  After examining the leak points and patterns around the main engine’s oil pan gasket, Alex agreed that we needed to pull the pan off and install a new gasket. Later that day he confirmed he had the gasket part in stock and would be out the next day to attack it.  That meant that Rick had to drain the oil; it was a bit early for an oil change (not due for another 60 hours) but it would be worth it to resolve this annoying oil pan leak.

Oil Pan Removed....There Isn't a Lot of
Clearance Underneath that Big Lugger

On Wednesday we spent most of the day in the engine room….got the pan dropped and the old gasket removed:  it looked pretty gnarly, probably a combination of insufficient adhesive in some places, then overtightening that had malformed it further.  Alex wasn’t happy with some of the uneven surfaces on the oil pan lip, so he removed the fan belt housings at the front end of the engine, slid the oil pan out from under, and then sanded the rim to bare metal. Then an even coating of Permatex was applied along with the new gasket.  By late afternoon the job was done and Rick then tackled installing the new oil filter and filling the engine with 6.2 gallons of fresh oil.

But we did not run the engine yet….the gasket sealant needed to cure overnight.  So it wasn’t until Thursday morning at 0900 that Rick fired up the main engine and ran it for a full hour at varying RPM settings.  Alex was back aboard shortly after 1000 to make a visual check of his handiwork.  All the new absorbent pads were still pure white, and we could find no seepage anywhere around the new oil pan gasket.  That certainly was all good news – oh yeah, and done under warranty – although we would need a final leak check when we got the next opportunity to run the engine under a load while underway.  That would come several days later when we were scheduled to sortie out to take on fuel.

Fri, 30-Mar at Old Port Cove

Ray Squeezed into the Small Engine Room
Alcove to Work on the Stabilizer

Next up was for us to get a diver out to clean the boat below the waterline and check all the sacrificial anodes.  That’s typically a monthly event, and we wanted a slick hull before setting off for the islands. Mark from Treasure Coast Diving made time in his busy schedule to dive the boat on Friday afternoon and after a couple hours of underwater work pronounced the hull, bottom paint and anodes all in good shape.

Shortly after that our friends from Stabilized Marine (Ray and Dillon) came to the boat to asses our stabilizer issues.  They believed the melted grease leak on the pump to be a result of overfilling with grease, with the recommendation to keep running it, mopping up the residue occasionally, and waiting for the excess grease to basically burn off.  But the oil leak on the starboard side actuator would require replacing its feedback valve – again.  We’d had that done once before about six months ago.  We got on their schedule to return with the part and replace it early the following week.

And Some Fun Stuff

During this layover interval we also had the opportunity to make new friends.  A few days after we arrived, another Nordhavn, an N47 named Mari Mi, pulled in to OPC just a few slips down from us.  We introduced ourselves to Mike and Mari Zimet who had just returned from six weeks cruising in the Bahamas – coincidentally along a path through the Abacos nearly identical to the one we were in the midst of planning.  Mike and Mari were an absolute treasure trove of hugely helpful tips and information.  And since Mike also runs a Nobeltec navigation system on his boat, we took the opportunity to export all his tracks to a USB stick and uploaded those to our nav system.  Now that’s good some intel to have given how skinny the depth can be over there.

Mike & Mari's N47, Mari Mi, Arrives at Old Port Cove

To return the favor Rick spent some time aboard Mari Mi to help Mike with some outboard engine maintenance, a wing engine oil change, and installing some new Racor fuel filters.

As a bonus we also were introduced by Mike and Mari to their OPC Marina next door neighbors, Paul and Kris Hickey, aboard their 49 foot Hinckley sailing ketch Irish Tango.  They had been buddy-boating together while over in the Abacos.  Of course we also ended up doing a progressive happy hour, going from boat to boat for snacks, drinks and tours.  Good times and good people.

Week of 01-Apr at Old Port Cove

While we were in “pause mode” waiting on the stabilizer maintenance Rick attacked a few of our minor punch list items, mainly to keep that list from getting too lengthy. That included removing and re-bedding a loose upper hinge on the starboard side boarding door; a healthy shot of the Rescue Bond XL1 caulk and some oversized stainless screws seemed to do the job.  We had also previously experienced a failure of some of the boat’s old style fresh water inline shutoff valves (wouldn’t shut off) so Rick replaced a couple of those, and also spent some time recalibrating the boat’s fresh water tank gauges.

A Disassembled Feedback Valve for the
Starboard Stabilizer....Only 4" Long and
the Damned Things Costs $550 (Part Only).

By Monday, 02-Apr, the techs from Stabilized Marine had located the needed part and a hole in their schedule to work on the starboard stabilizer’s feedback valve.  While not a hugely complex task (for them at least), it requires quite a bit of disassembling caps, covers and hoses on the actuator; and accessing that damned thing is another story.  Its compartment is tucked under the forward starboard alcove of the engine room, and to get under that we needed to remove a lot of gear normally stored there.  You can’t be a big fellow to squeeze back there unless you’re willing to call the fire department for an extraction rescue when you’re done.  A couple hours later the job was done, and the subsequent system tests at the dock looked good. 

It will be interesting to see how long this new feedback valve lasts, although we were informed that Naiad recently reduced their already lousy warranty on that part (which costs around $550 USD by the way) from 90 to 30 days; at this pace we might just have to get used to living with some leaks.  It reminds us that fellow Nordy owner Dennis Fox once said the best way to practice for owning a complex trawler was to go to the nearest marina and start throwing hundred dollar bills into the water.

On Tuesday, 03-Apr, we bid farewell to Mike and Mari (Mari Mi) and to Paul and Kris (Irish Tango.)  Both were headed back north (in spite of the weather up there.)  We hope to visit Mike and Mari in their home port of Oriental, North Carolina when we head that way ourselves later this year.  

Irish Tango Pulling Out of OPC and Headed Back North

Over the next few days Chelle also tended to her final knee treatments back in Fort Myers, and upon return the final provisioning of our fresh goods, while Rick kept up with the regular Wheelhouse maintenance items on the boat. And on Friday, 06-Apr, we took on 478 gallons of diesel, topping off our fuel tanks so that we wouldn’t have to pay Bahamian fuel prices should that need arise.

On Saturday, 07-Apr, we welcomed our good friend Michel Sirois and his wife Caroline back to the USA as they arrived at OPC aboard their Nordhavn 50, Sea Turtle.  Michel was part of our crew when we crossed the Atlantic last year aboard N60 Relish, and it was great to hook up with him once again and catch up on his recent adventures in the Bahamas.  At about the same time, our very close friends Dan and Juli Eisenberg drove over from their home in Englewood and joined us aboard Ghost Rider.  We got them settled into what would be their new “home” for the next 12 days as we cruised through the Abacos together.

N50 Sea Turtle Arrives at OPC after Several Months in the Bahamas

Next Up

Now it was all about finding a weather window to cross the Gulf Stream.  Originally we planned to depart Sunday morning for the West End Settlement on Grand Bahama, but the forecast was changing for the worse as of late Saturday, putting that plan in jeopardy….predicted sea states were getting rough and thunderstorms were starting to pop at both departure and destination points.  Yet another late season cold front was plowing through the state from the north, triggering all sorts of unwelcome atmospheric activity. 

We’ll just have to remain ready to go as we closely monitor what seems to be a constantly changing forecast.

Chelle, with Juli & Dan Playing Rummikub on Their First Night Aboard Ghost Rider

March 2018: Final Preps & Departure

Before departing Legacy Harbour and Fort Myers we wanted to be confident that we had (a) an adequate supply of maintenance-related spares parts and (b) a full load of other provisions, including basic household supplies as well as food.  So while Rick focused on supplies of fuel & oil filters, impellers, pumps, belts and that sort of thing, Chelle zeroed in on her “hotel load” spreadsheet requirements.  Amazon and the local Publix loved her.

Periodically We Remove and Lubricate All Deck Plates.  This One for the
Manual Rudder Tiller Wouldn't Budge Because the Deck Plate Wrench
Wouldn't Fit in the Holes. Drilling Out with a Titanium Drill Bit Fixed That.

In the course of that order-and-wait process Rick also got a few minor maintenance items tended to, including replacing an erratic digital ammeter (related to alternator output) on the pilot house DC electrical panel, drilling out bigger holes in a recalcitrant deck plate, and replacing a GFCI outlet that went wonky back in the cockpit area.  Then, shortly after we had completed the sea trial for the dinghy we also took it for a spin up to the Fort Myers Yacht Basin to top it off (along with our spare fuel cans) with non-ethanol gas; that hopefully will sustain us for the upcoming weeks in the Bahamas.  Rick also did the same thing with our two propane gas tanks, being certain we had sufficient cooking fuel for the foreseeable future.

Final preparations included installing safety latches for the refrigerator and freezer doors, and then changing out the Racor primary fuel filters for the main and wing engines as well as the generator. 

Some March Fun Distractions

As usual we found sufficient distractions to give us some breaks from boat duties and trip preparations.  Legacy Harbor Marina throws an annual “Boater Appreciation Party” where they provide lots of free food and drinks, along with live entertainment on their large party deck.  It’s their way of thanking the long-term winter “residents” that make up the bulk of their annual revenues.  And yeah, it’s good marketing, too.  And, just a few days before we were planning to depart we finally got the chance to host Jim and Susan Hill aboard the boat, returning all the great hospitality they had shown us the last few months.  We had a nice happy hour on board and then enjoyed a very good pizza at Capone’s in downtown Fort Myer’s riverfront district.

Our Prized "Purple Heart Wood" Cutting Board, with Ghost Rider
Logo Now Mounted in the Salon

Lastly, we spent a little time mounting a unique and beautiful “Purple Heart” cutting board – a gift from daughter Suzanne – in the salon area.  Pictured to the left you’ll note the center strip of purplish wood that comes from the Purple Heart tree in the Brazilian rain forest.  You can read about the lumber HERE but it’s a plentiful tree and an amazingly durable wood.  And the Purple Heart motif holds special meaning for our family.  While it is now mounted quite sturdily to survive rough sea conditions, it can also be easily removed for practical use in the galley, too.

Tue 13-MAR…We’re Outta Here

On the morning of Tuesday 13-MAR we made a final check of the weather and found it good enough to go, and by 0930 we were underway and headed south towards Marco Island, our first planned stop.  While our winter months in Fort Myers were enjoyable and productive, it was good to be on the move once again.

The weather forecast called for relatively cool but clear conditions with winds around 15K from the northwest, and that’s pretty much what we got.  That also gave us a 3 foot following swell but at comfortable intervals and only a light wind chop on top, so it was a good ride with ground speed averaging just over 8 knots.

A View of The Marina at Factory Bay from Ghost Rider's Boat Deck

We had planned to stay at the Factory Bay marina for two nights but extended it to three due to an unexpected repair need (yes, another surprise.)  We had noticed a pretty good water leak (visually as well as per the bilge pump counter) in the forward bow thruster compartment, and it tasted pretty salty, so it became a priority to track down.  Eventually we traced it to the anchor locker, which is just forward and above the bow thruster area.  We had to dump a few hundred feet of anchor chain on the bottom of the marina to inspect and gain access to the bottom of that locker, and there we found a partially blocked drain hole and an encased hose run whose caulking had cracked and aged well beyond its point of effectiveness – giving water an easier path to inside the boat vs. the thru-hull drain.  Rick cleaned all that up and then applied liberal beads of Rescue Bond XL1 Pro (super caulk!)  That had to cure 18 to 24 hours before we could cover it again with all that chain, thus the extra night’s stay.  Once it had set Rick also covered the caulking seams with protective strips of 100MPH tape (see footnote below) and then we retrieved the chain the afternoon of 15-MAR.  We also found several deck bolts in that locker that were fairly loose and leaking water into that compartment from above, so we also tightened those, although eventually we would need to completely remove and re-bed those.

Inside the Anchor Locker After Removing
All the Chain; the Leaking Cracks Are Easy to See

While hanging out at Factory Bay we took the opportunity to make the short walk to one of our favorite eateries, Old Marco Pub, for dinner on our second night – the seafood is fresh and the steaks are tender, juicy and tasty there.  And as often happens in the cruising world we made some new friends – Mark and Sandy Holtsclaw pulled into the marina and docked right off our bow in their 42’ Kadey-Krogen, Karissa Leigh.  They hail from Michigan and are enjoying cruising in the relative warmth of south Florida this winter.  We toured each other’s boats and enjoyed back-to-back happy hour sessions in the process.

Fri 16-MAR…Down to the Everglades

We had yet another good forecast for our Friday departure and by 1000 we sortied away from the dock, made our way through Gordon Pass and then pointed Ghost Rider south, initially towards the mouth of the Shark River where we had planned to anchor.  But the conditions were so good – temps eventually got to 75F, seas were very tame, and we were seeing ground speeds on the GPS between 8 and 9 knots – that we decided to press further south to Cape Sable.  We had noticed an anchorage review in that area (via Active Captain) that was very positive for the anticipated conditions there – a light southeast breeze and flat water.

Our View of the Sunset From the Fly Bridge While Anchored at Cape Sable

By 1800 we had dropped the anchor in about 9 feet of water about 600 meters from the shoreline, right at the southwestern-most edge of the Cape, and set the anchor alarm.  There was not another boat or soul in sight throughout the night, and at this point we were “off the grid” – there is no cellular service there.  The sunset was spectacular as was the stargazing that followed…the near total lack of light pollution gave us unhindered views of numerous celestial features (thank you Google Sky Map).  We turned off the genset and went with fresh air ventilation overnight (with screens….there are bugs that will eat you here in Everglades National Park even in March), and were pleased to see the house battery bank only down to 88% capacity the next morning.

As for “boat business” (see further below) we still have a water leak in the forward thruster compartment, although at a slower rate and different location; that will get more investigation later, likely after we dock up in Fort Lauderdale later in the week.

Sat 17-MAR…From the Glades to Marathon

We fired up the generator the next morning to charge up the batteries (it took two hours to get them back to 97%, which is acceptable.)  We had a lazy morning on the hook as there was no rush to depart….it would be less than a 5 hour sortie to Marathon and we wanted to wait for a higher tide since at this point we only had about a half foot of water under the keel at low tide.  By 1100 we had retrieved the anchor and were motoring south at around 8 knots.  Weather was perfect, with temps in the 70’s, light breezes from the SE, and flat seas….an excellent St. Patty’s day in the subtropics.

Chelle Piloting Ghost Rider Across Florida Bay in Flat Seas

While enroute we tested our reverse osmosis water maker – that would be a no-go item for a Bahamas sortie if it wasn’t fully operational – and over a two hour span we confirmed the unit will produce about 28 gallons of fresh water with excellent quality; so we were quite pleased with that. (However: Rick learned a lesson about opening the correct water manifold valves, e.g., do that before you crank up the water maker unless you want copious amounts of RO product water on the engine room floor around the fresh water manifold.)  Apart from that exercise the day’s journey was pleasant and mostly about dodging the numerous crab pots that dot the seascape in these latitudes this time of year.

The Rebuilt Marathon Marina's Concrete Floating Docks

After passing under the Seven Mile Bridge (with a quick following current giving us 9 knots even at a reduced throttle) Rick steered Ghost Rider into Marathon’s Boot Key Harbor and the Marathon Marina just after 1500.  Their new floating docks are quite nice, by the way, and it looks as if they’ve recovered from Hurricane Irma damage quite nicely.  Coming in at low tide was a tad unnerving as the harbor’s entrance channel has some serious shoaling on the south side, but we hugged the green markers (north side) and kept the keel off the bottom.

Sun 18-MAR…From Marathon to Rodriguez Key

Rick Hanging Out on the Fly Bridge with Cigar
and Scotch at Rodriguez Key Anchorage

We waited for high tide before departing the next morning (around 1030) and that made our exit through the harbor’s channel a lot less stressful than the entrance the previous day.  We also should compliment Marathon Marina on the width of its main fairway – maneuvering in and out of our slip was straightforward.

We steered Ghost Rider south to get around the Boot Key land mass and once clear of that then turned her east to head up Hawk Channel in the general direction of Key Largo, where we planned to anchor on the inside of Rodriguez Key. The ride up the channel was delightful….smooth water, mild temps nearing 80F, and the crab pots weren’t as numerous as the previous two days, with only occasional evasive action required. 

When we arrived at Rodriguez Key the anchorage on the northwest side of the island looked like a parking lot….we counted 12 boats, all sail, already anchored when we arrived just after 1700.  But there was still plenty of room for us to find a good spot with more than adequate swing room, and the depth – even arriving at low tide – was good.  We dropped the hook, set it hard, and enjoyed another wonderful evening at anchor.

Mon 19-MAR…From Rodriguez Key to Fort Lauderdale

View from the Fly Bridge:  Rodriguez Key Anchorage at Sunset

While it was a peaceful night the next morning we were a bit disturbed by our house battery readings.  While SOC was solid at 87% after inverting off the batts overnight, the voltage seemed mighty low at 12.1 volts.  We didn’t have time to troubleshoot at that point, so we just fired up the generator and let it charge the house bank for the next 3 hours, and let the alternators take over from there.

We wanted to be underway by 0830, but when we said we had set the anchor hard, we weren’t kidding.  Judging by the amount of sand, mud and shells that was seemingly glued to the topside of our anchor once we had spooled it to the boat, we were thinking we should have had a dredging permit.  But Rick eventually got the anchor cleaned and stowed, and Chelle drove us out of the anchorage, pointing us north on our planned route to Fort Lauderdale. Initially seas were mostly calm, and once again we were blessed with excellent weather, allowing us to spend most of the day at the fly bridge helm.  We also were now far enough north (relatively speaking) that the crab pot dodging was drastically reduced, making use of the “navigation mode” of the autopilot much more practical.

Passing Miami in Crystal Clear Waters Enroute
to Fort Lauderdale....Before it Got Rough

But later in the afternoon the winds and seas picked up; while waves were only 2 to 3 footers quartering on the starboard stern, they were at 2 second intervals and pushing the boat around.  The ride was smooth enough, but the autopilot struggled with holding the programmed headings, yawing +/- 10 degrees.  That wasn’t a big deal until it was time for our WOT (wide open throttle) run as we got close to Fort Lauderdale at the end of the sortie.

After Rick firewalled the throttle he turned the helm over to Chelle and was headed down to the engine room to make the usual WOT checks.  That’s when a bigger wave hit Ghost Rider from the rear tossing the boat’s bow to the starboard quite a bit, and the autopilot went bonkers, throwing the rudder into a hard-over starboard turn.  It’s actually pretty amazing how fast a Nordhavn 50 can snap into a 180 degree end swap ends…in seconds we were suddenly headed south instead of north.  We immediately throttled back and simultaneously disengaged the autopilot to regain control, but it was disconcerting.  Rick made visual checks of the rudder post, steering ram and autopilot pump / plumbing, but found all in order.  He also then made another short WOT run with manual steering and found nothing amiss.  So from what we can tell at this point it was an autopilot computer screw-up, and we’ll change our WOT procedures in sloppy following seas going forward.  Full displacement trawlers aren’t intended to be amusement park rides.

There Are Some BIG Boats at the Pier 66 Marina....Ghost Rider Was
Among the Smallest Ones There

Of course we had the same sloppy seas as we entered the Fort Lauderdale (Port Everglades) entrance channel; Rick manually steered Ghost Rider from the fly bridge, and it would have been mostly uneventful except for all the other boats doing stupid things heading in and out.  Two cruise ships, approximately the size of aircraft carriers, were headed outbound; a large sportfish towing its tender barreled past on our port side; two sailboats bobbed almost motionless in front of us; and then to top it off a small outboard-powered skiff dawdled off our bow blocking our path for any maneuvering….it was the first time that Rick made use of our very loud ship’s horn to warn a small craft we were about to run over them.

Nonetheless we were able to weave our way through all of that chaos and into the Pier 66 Marina for an uneventful docking.  Ghost Rider got a well-deserved wash down, as did we, and we called it a day.

Mon 20-MAR & 21-MAR…A Pause at Fort Lauderdale

We had a list of “boat business” things that required attention, but more impactfully the weather forecast for the next few days looked lousy, with a cold front bringing a squall line and stiff winds.  So we decided to just hang out at Pier 66 Marina for a couple of days, and that gave us some time to tend to some more “boat business” items.

More Boat Business

First we did another water leak check on and under the foredeck with Chelle wielding a pressurized hose above, and Rick down below checking for leaks and drips.  The only ones we could find were a couple of the aforementioned deck bolts, so we removed those, cleaned them and re-bedded them snugly with the Rescue Bond XL1 Pro caulk.  Another leak check the next day confirmed we had no more leaks from that deck area at least.

Three of the Six House Batteries (Port Side) Along with Our Testing
Tools, the IR Temperature Gun and the Multimeter

Next up was a drawdown test of the house batteries to assess the apparent low voltage condition we had witnessed after a night of inverting from batteries while at anchor.  Essentially we simulated the same type of anchorage conditions while at the dock – removing shore power and powering up minimal equipment.  Thankfully the cold front that passed overnight and strong northwest winds that followed kept the boat comfy without the A/C being active.  Every hour over a period of 6 hours Rick recorded the key data points: DC draws, AC draws, SOC and voltage at the LinkPro, then manual multimeter readings of battery voltages directly at each of the six house batts, along with battery temperature.

The Other Three House Batts (Starboard Side); the Lifeline 8DAGMs
Weigh About 160 Lbs and Cost Around $700....Each

The end result after those 6 hours running on batts / inverter was what one would hope for….SOC was at 92.5% and house battery voltage measured by the multimeter directly at the batts was at 12.78V (with 12.8V being the optimum, so not bad at all.)  The LinkPro reported 12.71V, so that is reading a tad low, but only by a .55% deviation.  Whether another 2-3 hours of testing would have resulted in significantly lower readings is an unknown, but doubtful given the consistent readings we saw.  (But we’ll still keep a wary eye on it next time we anchor out.)

The other two main issues, although still relatively minor, included a reappearance of the oil drip from the main engine’s oil pan gasket (forward end only), and similarly a return of the grease seepage from the bottom of the stabilizer hydraulic pump, and a new (currently just nuisance level) hydraulic leak on the starboard stabilizer actuator assembly.  Rick was tired of dealing with these, so we phoned our friends at Yacht Tech in North Palm Beach and told them we were headed their way to turn those problems over to them.  Thus NPB is our new interim destination while we wait on our window to cross over to the Bahamas.

Wed 22-MAR…From Lauderdale to North Palm Beach

Typical Stretch Along the AICW.....Bridges and All Manner of Watercraft

Departure and arrival point forecasts were just about identical – sunny, low 70’s, with winds down to 10-15K inland, but with gale warnings and 5 foot seas just off the coast.  Thus, we figured it was a good day to cruise up the ICW to Palm Beach, even though that meant dealing with 21 bridges, 14 of which we would have to wait on openings.  That could make the short 45 mile journey a good deal longer than the six hours the nav computer calculated, so we departed FLL at around 0900 and hoped the crazy boaters stayed away from us.

They did not.

The inland waterway was mostly just plain whacky….big boats that did not know how to time a bridge opening, small boats that had no clue they were sharing a navigation channel and couldn’t judge bridge heights, and sailboats that thought they had the right-of-way even when they were under power. Most with port-of-call registrations well north of Florida.  It was a circus.

Rick manned the helm most of the day from the fly bridge….although not because of pleasant weather – it was freakin’ cold up there with 15-20K winds from the north, but when combined with our forward speeds much closer to 25K, and with temps in the 60’s. But the better visibility and subsequent ease of maneuverability trumped the environmentals.  Chelle camped out in the pilot house helm chair to control the wing engine when needed for providing hydraulics to power the thrusters – which was often required as we waited on bridge openings in brisk currents and winds – and to relay or confirm upcoming bridge information.

Ghost Rider Tucked into Her Berth at Old Port Cove Marina

We would have much preferred to be offshore, but knew we would have been just as disappointed with the ride conditions out there.  It was a trade-off.  At any rate, we made North Palm Beach and Old Port Cove Marina around 1715, an 8+ hour sortie for the day, normally quite acceptable, but lousy time for such a relatively short leg.  We got the boat and ourselves cleaned up, enjoyed hot shrimp gumbo for dinner and then crashed into our lounge chairs.

Next Up

We’ll be hanging out in the Palm Beach area for about 10 days….it will take a while to line up the needed Yacht Tech resources and a visit from Stabilized Marine (the folks who service Naiad stabilizers), plus we have one more trip to make back to Fort Myers (via rental car) for some administrative stuff.  More on all of that later.

Footnotes

** What is 100 MPH Tape?  The commercial version of it is generally called duct tape, but back in WWII the U.S. Army had Johnson & Johnson manufacture the original version to milspec.  It’s like duct tape, but is olive drab in color and its weave it much tighter, plus its adhesive is stronger, and is waterproof…not the stuff you find at Home Depot.  The slang “100 MPH” tape came about because American GI’s swore it could hold broken parts on a Jeep together even when going 100 miles per hour.  You can also place it on a fabric tear, heat it (like with a clothes iron) and the stuff will stick for years.

** What's a WOT (wide open throttle) run?  The main propulsion engines on long distance trawlers, especially with Nordhavns, are continuous duty diesels (most, like ours, are Lugger brand, marinized by Northern Lights), designed for service lives in excess of 25,000 hours.  But normal cruising is typically done at low RPMs and therefor, low loads....and these diesels don't particularly care for that.  Carbon soot can build up in the cylinders, plus it will shorten oil life.  So the standard practice is, once every day, to throttle up to max RPM and run it wide open for a period of 7-10 minutes to blow out whatever may have accumulated.  We think of it like a thoroughbred horse that's been trotting for too long and just needs to enjoy a healthy sprint.  Plus it turns out to be a great time to examine certain health metrics about the engine and fuel system....such as exhaust gas temperature (EGT),  turbo boost pressure, various on-engine heat gun readings, and the fuel system's (Racor) vacuum gauge reading.

** Finally, a reminder on our tracking site, which you can HERE.  It's the best way to know if we are on the move and to where.  Note that we have filtered the tracking map display such that it will only show our more recent tracks (it was getting a bit cluttered.)  Over the past week it looks like this: